In anticipation of this week’s feasting, I wanted to send out a brief dispatch to ease the minds of readers who might be stressing.
There is so much baggage that comes with Thanksgiving, and the expectation of cooking a giant bird to create a Norman Rockwell tablescape is really the least of it. Alas, that’s what I’m best equipped to address in this space.
So while I can’t help you with your family drama or stressful travel plans, I can give you the annual Turkey Pep Talk.
For starters, I hope you’re only cooking a turkey if you really want to. I didn’t grow up in a turkey-eating family. My father’s mother prefers ham. My mother’s giant extended family Thanksgiving was a potluck affair. So there might be a turkey, but there were also buckets of fried chicken, a spiral-cut ham, soupy pinto beans and cornbread and greens, and macaroni and cheese among a sea of other dishes. I view the turkey as purely optional.
But I know that isn’t the case for many families, so below I’ve compiled some of the most common “emergencies” you’re likely to encounter as you run the Thanksgiving gauntlet.
My first piece of advice: take a deep breath. It’s just food.
The Turkey Isn’t Fully Thawed
It’s the morning-of and your turkey is still more or less a block of ice. You have two options:
Submerge the turkey in cold water. It will take about 30 minutes per pound to thaw completely, less time if the turkey is only partially frozen.
Cook the turkey from frozen. You’ll want to avoid high-heat cooking methods. Stick to 350 to 375 F and plan for the turkey to take 1 1/2 times as long as it would have if it were thawed. Halfway through cooking, season the skin liberally with salt and pepper.
Either way, the turkey is going to be underseasoned so make your gravy robust. In times like these, I like to add a dash of soy sauce or some miso to my gravy for extra umami.
The Breast Is Cooked But the Legs Aren’t Done
Suppose you’ve cooked the breast to perfection. It’s at 150 to 155 F and you’re getting ready to pull it out of the oven to rest. But the legs aren’t there yet.
One of the cruel truths of turkey is that cooking the breast meat a shade over 165 F gets you dry meat, but the legs are best cooked to 175 or even 180 F, otherwise they’re tough and stringy. It’s possible to cook a turkey perfectly as a unit, but in all probability, the breast meat will be done first.
So here’s the plan: carve off the turkey legs. They should come off pretty easily, as they’re mostly cooked at this point. Use a silicone oven mitt to help you grasp the hot drumsticks, or wrap them in foil to protect your hands. Either put the legs on a sheet pan and set that back in the oven or, my favorite, set them on top of your pan of stuffing (we usually cook the stuffing at the same time as the turkey).
The turkey legs get to finish cooking and your stuffing gets a little sprinkling of turkey juices and fat.
The Turkey Is Dry
It happens. Turkey is a lean meat. Don’t be too hard on yourself.
This very real possibility is why gravy is important. Going into it, you should plan on making plenty of gravy, more than you think you’ll need. Gravy covers a multitude of sins.
Slice dry turkey breast thin so you get a higher ratio of gravy to meat (it’s also just easier to chew a thin piece of dry turkey than a thick piece). Use the leftover turkey for soup.
You Overshot the Ideal Temperature
It’s easy to get distracted on Thanksgiving. It’s the New York City Marathon of food holidays, and most of us are juggling way more cooking tasks than we do the rest of the year.
If you check the temperature of your turkey breast and it’s already over the target (165 F), take it out of the oven and skip resting. Carve the breast right away. Doing this will halt carryover cooking, so you’re really just doing mitigation at this point.
The good news is that the legs will probably be perfectly cooked.
The Turkey Skin Is Burning
Maybe you used a brine with a lot of sugar in it (let that be a lesson to you—just kidding!), but whatever the reason the skin is getting too dark too quickly. A few things you can do (choose one or all):
Cover it loosely with foil.
Move the turkey to the bottom oven rack.
Decrease the oven temperature by 25 F.
Scooch the roasting pan so it’s closer to the door (cooler) than the back of the oven (hotter).
The Pan Drippings Are Starting To Burn
Pan drippings are the backbone of your gravy. If you notice them drying out or starting to burn, add a good splash of chicken or turkey stock to the roasting pan. Repeat as needed.
Your Oven Decides To Stop Working
This happened to us last year, and we were hosting. First, scream into a pillow. Just get it out so you can move on and access the logical part of your brain. Then find your mantra for the day. Something like, “I am a smart and capable person.” Repeat whenever self-doubt creeps in.
Here’s how we handled it:
We cooked the turkey in our pellet smoker (a Traeger). You can also cook a turkey on the grill. If neither of those options is available to you, see if any of the people you invited over have oven space to spare. If that’s not feasible, you’re going to have to get creative. Cut off the turkey legs and wings and confit them (this is a decent guide for timing and temperature whether or not you use the seasonings called for). If you have an immersion circulator, you can sous vide the breast or rig a makeshift sous vide setup with heavy duty zip-top bags and a large pot. Or cut the raw breast into medallions and pan-sear them. You won’t have pan drippings, so make gravy with a darker roux and chicken stock.
We used an air fryer oven for some of the side dishes, and it worked really well, but again, if you can call upon any of your guests to help cook off side dishes at their homes, that’s an option (we did this as well). Don’t be proud! Most people will be thrilled to help.
Strategize: what can you cook on the stovetop or even the microwave? What other appliances can you call into service? Slow cooker? InstantPot? Modify your recipes accordingly. Mashed potatoes don’t need an oven, so you’re good there. Instead of baked green bean casserole, blanch your green beans, make the sauce in a skillet, then add the green beans and garnish with crispy onions. Cook individual portions of stuffing in a waffle iron. Get weird.
The final option, which is very much an option, is to get takeout and let the events of the day just roll off you. Gather your people around, pour them wine, and let them know you love them.